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When the first Benihana opened in 1964, Japanese cuisine
was unknown to the United States and the idea of having a chef prepare a
meal at your table was completely unheard of. Blending exotic Japanese dishes
with a dazzling chef performance may have been a radical idea, but it was
the recipe for success at Benihana. More than 100,000,000 meals have been
served since 1964.
By bringing Japanese food into the mainstream and pioneering
its "eatertainment" style of presentation, Benihana has also paved the way
in America for the popularity of other Japanese cooking styles and food
products. Sushi is now a favorite all over the U.S. and soy sauce has become
a staple in numerous American kitchens, all thanks to Benihana.
This incredible American success story really had its roots
in Japan right after the war. At that time, Yunosuke Aoki, (Yoo-OOH-No-Soo-Kay
Ah-OH-Kee), a samurai descendant and a popular Japanese entertainer together
with his wife Katsu (KAHT-Soo), opened a small coffee shop in Tokyo. A red
safflower, found in the neighborhood streets gave the Aoki's the inspiration
for the restaurant's name - Benihana - which in Japanese means "red flower."
From his show business background, Yunosuke was well aware
of the publics' attraction to something "different." This little Benihana
coffeehouse soon became known for serving and using real sugar. Yunosuke
would have to pedal his bicycle more than 20 miles to purchase the sugar.
The family's four sons grew up with the coffee shop, which
later became a full service restaurant. Each of them understood the restaurant
business from the ground up - the importance of absolute cleanliness in
the kitchen, using the freshest ingredients and the very best cooking tools
money could buy.
The eldest son, Hiroaki (HE-ROH-AH-Kee) also grasped the important
lesson of offering guests something out of the ordinary and he could not
help but inherit his father's appreciation for the "theatrical." There was
something magical about this combination and the thought stayed with him
as he completed college in Japan. Meanwhile, Hiroaki's athletic ability
had not been overlooked. His facility for wrestling earned him a spot on
the Japanese Olympic wrestling team. This team membership would eventually
bring him to America.
By the time Hiroaki arrived on U.S. soil in 1960, he had already
begun to form the idea that this country might be ready for a marriage of
a different kind of food - presented with an entertaining flair.
Adopting a name, which would be easier for Americans to pronounce,
Rocky Aoki set off to have his dream become reality. He worked seven days
a week selling ice cream in New York City and studied restaurant management
at night. Through saving and borrowing, Rocky scraped together enough money
to finance his first four-table restaurant on New York's W. 56th St.
As they worked within the authentic Japanese farmhouse interior,
the Benihana dining concept gradually came into focus. Food would be prepared
right at the table "teppan-yaki" style (Teppan meaning "steel grill" and
yaki meaning "broiled") with dazzling effects by highly trained chefs. Rocky
also believed that because the restaurant was near Broadway, the showmanship
of the chefs was extremely important. Beef, chicken and shrimp would be
the stars of the menu, all prepared "hibachi-style" (an American-style term
for "teppan-yaki" cooking). Guests at the communal tables would place their
orders with the chef and watch in amazement as these items were sliced and
diced, and flipped into the air. The timing in cooking was critical. These
different ingredients had to be ready to serve onto the guests' plates simultaneously.
In 1964, after all the preparation and planning, Benihana
of Tokyo was only serving one or two customers a day. Aoki family members
moonlighted at other restaurants just to pay the bills. But, six months
after the restaurant opened, an enthusiastic review by Clementine Paddleford,
legendary restaurant critic of the New York Herald-Tribune reversed the
trend for good. New Yorkers flocked to the four-table Benihana and Rocky
Aoki suddenly found himself in the position of having to turn dining guests
away.
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